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“Pizza has morphed into many different varieties in the States. In Naples, it has never changed." Fred Mortari, a co-owner of A Mano in Ridgewood talks about the true Neapolitan pizza he makes. “The revolution in the U.S. now is ‘Let’s go back to authenticity.’” Plus: a few tips for home cooks who don’t want to invest in their own brick oven and aren’t as skilled as a certified pizzaiolo ...